Embroidery is an art, decorating textiles by using needle and thread. Sometimes it uses fine gold or silver wire. Primarily these types of embroidery are used by noblemen and royal families. Embroidery includes fine design making on the fabric by using a needle. It is highly fashionable and a favorite of the brides. People who love to decorate themselves.
Embroidery in India has its own place in clothing and styling. As every region has its own language and dialect in India, every region has its own style of embroidery embellishment and techniques engaged in styling it.
Origins of Embroidery
Embroidery finds its roots back in China. The word embroidery came from the word broderie which means embellishment. Archeologists find the attributes of embroidery dating back to 2000 BC, like needle embroidered fabrics which confirms the existence of embroidery in ancient times. This grew to the extent that now we see embroidery work being worn by the whole world.
In India Embroidery grew rapidly in the Mughal Era. Especially under Akbar’s rule, this art saw tremendous progress because of his keen interest in the aesthetics of embroidery. Even Jahangir’s wife Noor Jahan designed the embroidery style know as ChikanKari which is found in Lucknow and other parts of Uttar Pradesh.
Important Types of Embroidery
As mentioned above, India has different embroidery styles in different parts of the country. , India has diversity in embroidery styles also, just like language. We will discuss some styles here.
ChikanKari
Lucknow Chikankari is the indigenous style of the land of Tehzeeb and Nazaqat. It was developed by Nur Jahan, the wife of Mughal ruler Jahangir herself.
Although we find its references back in third BC in Magesthenes’ texts He mentions some muslins having designs of flowers by Indians. ChikanKari began with white to white embroidery initially, but later Craftsmen used different colors and patterns to further stylize it.
ChikanKari pieces are created by block printing the patterns on the textile then embroiders stitch along with the pattern. Finally, they wash the piece to remove the pattern.
Kantha
Bengal’s own embroidery style Kantha is a simple but appealing art. Soft dhotis and sarees were designed with this embroidery style. Kantha was done with running stitch along the edges. The patterns were simple like birds, animals, and daily activities.
Phulkari
Punjab enters this line of embroideries with its immensely famous embroidery style Phulkari. As the name suggests, the Phulkari embroidery contains the motifs of flowers on the textile.
Phulkari is practiced in Punjabi households by women as a pastime. The embroidery is stitched on the backside of the textile so that the motifs take shape in the front.
Zardozi
The Zardozi artwork is a premium type of embroidery. The royal families and rulers and their families entertain themselves with this type of embroidery. This embroidery style came from Persia and flourished in Akbar’s time.
Original Zardozi artisans used gold and silver threads as well as pearl and precious stones. The fabrics were also royal-like rich silk velvets. Today’s Zardozi is somewhat different from its ancient forms. It uses copper wire with silver or gold polish and silk threads but it hasn’t taken away from the Royal and premium feel of the craft.
Aari
The Kashmiri version of embroidery Aari, also known as crewelwork is the special present of the Kashmiri artisan to the World. This embroidery includes fine stitch work done by a long hooked needle called crewel. It is a form of very fine embroidery. It involves fine floral motifs designed on the textile. Aari is highly favored by the royals.
Mirror Work
When you see lots of small round mirrors on someone’s clothes you understand that it is the Sheesha work from Rajasthan and Gujrat. This piece is created by using small shaped mirrors of various shapes and sizes, stitched between colorful embroidery.
This specific type of embroidery is very famous to wear during the Navaratri festival. We found this type of embroidery on bags, curtains, and various accessories.
Conclusion
All these designs are remarkable on their own. The whole of India shows how creative it is by the means of the work done in these embroideries. These impeccable pieces are the flowers of the tree of our Indian culture. We can nothing but only appreciate these designs and can feel proud of them.